Friday, April 10, 2009

Michele's Favorite Wine Is Groovy...


Grüner Veltliner, to be exact, made from a variety of grape widely grown in Austria and the Czech Republic, but almost nowhere else. No longer strictly the province of cork-dorks, Gru-Vee has become increasingly popular. And it's very food friendly, standing up well against Chardonnay, and going especially well with spring cookery - things like asparagus and ham, YAY!!!

Zippy and refreshing, groon-er FELT-leen-er (as it is properly pronounced) is the perfect wine for the coming spring and summer. (Sometimes it's a little sprightly when first opened as the result of a bit of carbon dioxide added during bottling to maintain freshness.)

Grüner means green in German, and the wine is called this not because the grapes are green (which they are), but because in the opinion of many the wine is best drunk young. Indeed, in Austria it is the tradition to drink it as young as possible. Nevertheless, while much of it is intended to be drunk young, some of it is capable of improving with long, long aging.

A Gru-Vee typically has a perfumed nose, with hints of grapefruit or other citrus and, most notably, freshly ground white pepper, its most distinguishing characteristic. The plains of Austria produce a more citrus-y flavor with spicy notes of pepper, while the steep vineyards along the Danube produce pure, minerally wines intended for laying down. Some are vaguely sweet, others as dry as stone. Some Gru-Vees can be (but typically aren't) up to 14 percent alcohol :=)

Of course, we have to get past the 1985 antifreeze scandal - certain Austrian wines imported into the U.S. were found to be (lightly) contaminated with diethylene glycol. (LOL, I guess it was cheaper than sugar.) Fortunately, the aftermath of this scandal produced some of the most stringent wine laws in the world. The bottles topped with red-and-white-striped seals assure us of complete purity.

Many are of the opinion that Gru-Vee has suffered in popularity from the problem German wines have always had, labels littered with long German words that no one understands. Hmmm, let's go looking for a Nigl Kremser Freiheit Kremstal or, better yet, a Weingut Brundimayer Kamptaler Terassen Gruner Veltliner. Fortunately, top producers are busily redesigning their labels with minimal text and maximum visual impact.

Sampling wines from different vineyards side by side can be very interesting. This is especially true for those with some age that have become more expressive of their terroir. The great Austrian Grüner Veltliner vineyards are:

Wachau (fruity crowd pleasers)
Loibenberg
Ried Schütt
Kellerberg
Achleiten
Steinriegl
Hochrain (Wösendorf)
Honivogl

Kremstal
Senftenberger Piri

Kamptal (spicy and challenging)
Käferberg
Ried Lamm
Spiegel
Zöbinger Heiligenstein

On the whole, it tastes like nothing else, and it is easier to drink and better with food than most inexpensive Chardonnays. I usually don't worry too much about food pairings, I simply open a bottle and enjoy, but some thoughts are:

Asparagus
Artichoke
Prosciutto
Green salad vinaigrette
Pad Thai
Fondue
Fish
Shellfish
Rouladen
Fresh Polska kielbasa
Wiener schnitzel