Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Chicken Vesuvio - The Real Deal


“Chicken Vesuvio, a specialty of Chicago, is an Italian-American dish made from chicken on the bone and wedges of potato, sauteed with garlic, oregano, white wine and olive oil, then baked until the chicken's skin becomes crisp. The dish is often garnished with a few green peas for color.  In Chicago, one also often finds the technique applied to other foods, like ‘steak Vesuvio,’ ‘pork chops Vesuvio,’ or even just ‘Vesuvio potatoes.’  The origins of the dish are unknown, but some suggest it might have been popularized by the Vesuvio Restaurant, which operated… in Chicago in the 1930s.” - Wikipedia

Sadly, most Vesuvio recipes you now come across only vaguely resemble a true Vesuvio.  But I know where the real recipe came from…

Before Julia Child, long before, Francois and Antoinette Pope taught us to cook on their daily television show, which ran from 1951 to 1963 on both network and local stations.  (Daily?  Obviously people, including TV cooks, had far more of a work ethic in those days.)  And, as a kid, I used to watch it, learning to cook at a young age, and nicely rounding out my TV day of Uncle Johnny Coons, Kukla, Fran, & Ollie, and Garfield Goose.


The Popes began their schools in 1930.  Francois was French, and Antoinette was Italian.  (And as far as I can see, Antoinette did the heavy lifting.)  A 1938 Chicago Tribune advertisement for “Antoinette Pope’s School of Fancy Cookery” offered lessons for $1.  The Antoinette Pope School of Fancy Cookery ran for over 40 years, graduating over 100,000 students.  Antoinette’s cookbook (which I have two copies of, one dog-eared, grease and batter spattered, and notated, and one in mint condition) first appeared in 1948.  (My aunt has one bearing Antoinette's autograph.)

The Popes have long since passed.  And the The New Antoinette Pope School Cookbook has been out of print since its 3rd edition in 1977.  But here is the nearly verbatim (and in strict violation of copyright laws) recipe for Chicken Vesuvio…


Chicken Vesuvio (serves 4)

3-pound frying chicken, cut up

½ cup sifted all-purpose flour combined with 2 teaspoons paprika, 1/2 teaspoon crushed oregano, 1/2 teaspoon garlic salt, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon grated Italian cheese

1/4 cup hot olive oil

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup stock or water

1/4 cup dry white wine (optional)

Wash the chicken under cold, running water, drain it thoroughly, but have it slightly damp so the coating will cling better.  Roll each piece in the seasoned flour, pressing coating on with both hands.  Saute the chicken in the hot oil combined with butter over medium heat until brown on both sides, but not too dark as it will darken more in the oven.  Place it in an attractive piece of ovenware.  Add the stock or water to the drippings in the skillet, and pour this over the chicken.  Place browned potatoes in and around the open spaces on the platter.  Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for about an hour, or until tender, removing the breasts after 40 minutes.  (I myself often don't take the breasts out.)   Baste chicken with drippings in pan or with additional butter the last 10 minutes.  If drippings appear scant, add stock or wine.

Remember to put your breasts back in for the last few minutes if you took them out.  At this point, little heaps of peas or green beans can be placed in open spaces, or may be served separately.


Browned Potatoes

2 pounds red boiling potatoes, peeled and quartered

1/4 cup hot olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons grated Italian cheese

Brown the potatoes in the hot oil, remove them, and season them with the salt, pepper, and cheese.


Peas or string beans

1/4 cup sliced or chopped onion

1/4 cup hot olive oil or butter (or combination)

1 package defrosted frozen peas or beans

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon grated Parmesan

1/4 teaspoon crushed oregano

Saute the onion in the hot oil for several minutes.  Add the defrosted vegetables and cook until tender - seven or eight minutes for beans, three for peas.  (I always do peas and serve them separately.)



Additional Source:  Chicago Tribune

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